Positano, Italy
If you’ve found your way to this site because you are looking to plan your own trip to this beautiful place, you are in for a treat. Positano, Italy is truly a slice of paradise. Situated on the Amalfi Coast, it is best known for romantic getaways, day tours from neighboring towns and of course, the lemon groves. There is no place like it on the coast, and in my humble opinion, no place like it in the world. It is set into a dramatic landscape of cliffs and colors making everything seem like it is 3D! I caught myself teary eyed multiple times and asking, “Is this a dream?”
In Positano, you will find it all - great shopping, incredible dining, breathtaking views and relaxing beaches. Many use it as a home base when exploring the Amalfi Coast, and I can understand why. When you are planning a trip to this corner of the world, I hope these recommendations make things just that much easier!
Getting There:
When it comes to getting to and from Positano (and much of the Amalfi Coast), there are a few options. Depending on where you fly and what your budget is, there is something for everyone. Although it’s not difficult, it can take some planning, so I would recommend weighing your options using Rome2Rio.com
Being that we typically fly American Airlines, we landed in Rome (FCO) in the morning. Since this was a *quick* getaway trip, we opted for the budget friendly route. Can I just say, planning trips is my JAM, so I scoured the internet for tips on how best to get there, and even with a bullet proof plan we ended up calling an audible - ha! That just goes to show, the best part of traveling can sometimes be the unexpected!
On arrival in Rome, we hopped on a train to Naples, with a stop in Roma Termini (the station in the city center, ~30 minutes from FCO). The train system was very easy to navigate, and there were trains going in and out all day long! I would recommend preparing when you get to Roma Termini, as the station was large and rather crowded.
After a 2 hour train ride, we arrived in Naples and jumped in a taxi to take us to the ferry station (at this point in our day, jetlagged and overwhelmed - a TORRENTIAL DOWNPOUR began. I am a born and raised Floridian, and even I had a hard time with this rain, ha!)
We then emerged from the ferry into Sorrento and let me just tell you - the first time you get a look at the Amalfi Coast, it will take your breath away.
At this point, our plan was to take a bus to neighboring Positano, but we were exhausted, wet and didn’t feel like waiting for the next bus. We opted for a taxi and set off down the winding roads. We simply told the driver the name of our hotel, and he took us straight to the doorstep!
Alternatively, you could fly into Rome, take a train to Salerno and ferry to Positano from there, which is what we chose to do on the way home. Another option is to fly directly into Naples and hire a car service to bring you to Positano. We contemplated this for our return journey, but ultimately decided that a ferry ride would be worth the extra time it took.
Where To Stay
As I said, Positano is a great home base to see other towns on the coast, but we opted to spend the entirety of our 4 days seeing this beautiful place. Since our trip was rather last minute, we did have difficulty finding a place with availability within our budget. There are SO MANY options, and you can’t go wrong.
Positano has two main beaches, Spiaggia Grande, the quintessential beach picture you see all over the ‘Gram, and Fornillo Beach, situated just West of Positano’s city center. We opted to stay near Fornillo Beach, as we found the prices were radically reduced, and everything was still walkable. To sum up some other options though, consider these:
Hotel Vittoria: This is where we stayed!
Le Sireunuse
Hotel Poseidon
Il San Pietro
Palazzo Murat
What to Do
Wander through the city center and take in the views, culture and shopping experiences. Wear your walking shoes!
Hike the Path of the Gods. If there is anything you must do, it’s this! I found a lot of conflicting internet responses on how best to find the trailhead, so I’ll try to sum it up. From Positano, you will need to take 2 busses to the trailhead in Bomerano. The night before, we bought bus tickets, which you can purchase at any convenience store (plenty of them throughout the town- anywhere that sells tobacco and souvenirs essentially). At 6 am the following morning we boarded a bus to Amalfi. The bus station is a ZOO there, so we simply asked for “the bus to Bomerano” and were told where to wait.
Once on board that bus, you are driven back toward Positano and into the mountains. At this point, either ask the bus driver for the “Path of the Gods stop” or follow the crowd, as it is very likely that everyone on board will be going there as well. (I googled the correct stop on my phone map, and followed along with the route so we knew when to expect to get off.) Once you get off, there are signs that will lead you toward the start. It is 7 miles of HEAVEN with plenty of picnic and picture spots. Pack a lunch, plenty of water and enjoy!
Enjoy a beach day! Choose between Spiaggia Grande or Fornillio Beach, relax and take it all in. Rent 2 chairs and an umbrella for less than 30 Euro.
Take a Boat Tour around the island. This is the one regret I have from the trip. Being that we went in mid-October, I was concerned that the weather would not be right for a boat day. Turns out, it was sunny and 75 degrees all week and the boat would have been perfect. From my research, THIS COMPANY seemed to have great reviews and affordable prices.
Take a day trip to a neighboring town, Sorrento, Amalfi, Priano or Ravello.
Ferry to the island of Capri. We opted for this instead of a boat day and it was gorgeous. We walked (in hindsight, I’d definitely take a cab) to the city center, and then boarded the bus up to AnaCapri. Don’t miss the Blue Grotto or the Monte Salaro chair lift! I will say, we were rather disappointed with our day here. We didn’t arrive early enough to miss the line for the Blue Grotto (although I’ve heard it's a MUST) and the chair lift in AnaCapri was incredible, however, it was a bit touristy for us. Hear me out (!!) I have heard from multiple people though, that spending a night or two on Capri is vastly different from a day trip. So, keep that in mind as an option if you plan to come here!
Where to Eat
Next2
Da Vincenzo
La Tagliata
Chez Black
Capricci
Il Capitano
Le Sireunuse
Others:
Franco’s
Ristorante Max
Ristorante Bruno
Da Gabrisa
Al Capri
No matter how you choose to spend your time in Positano, you will not be disappointed. I encourage you to soak it up, stick to a *loose* itinerary and interact with the locals as much as possible. One thing we loved about Positano is that we never felt like we were a bother to the locals, and we never felt that we were being swindled or treated like a tourist.
“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”
– John Steinbeck
